Russian photographer Evgeny Feldman has spent the last five weeks documenting his homeland as people have visited from all over the globe for the World Cup. As well as photographing the daily life of towns and cities during the tournament, he was also at the stadiums to capture the key moments and stars of the World Cup such as Kylian Mbappé, Luka Modric and Harry Kane
by Evgeny Feldman, Jim Powell and words by Shaun Walker
It seems a long, long time ago when Yuri Gazinskiy jumped to head home the first of five Russia goals against Saudi Arabia, in the World Cup’s opening match. The excitement and sense of possibility of the early stages transitioned to the nail-biting drama of the early knockout rounds, as the tournament tapered inevitably towards its final conclusion.
The biggest winners of this World Cup, aside from either France or Croatia when they lift the trophy at the Luzhniki Stadium on Sunday evening, are the hosts.
The most widely heard chant at almost every game was that of the neutral locals, unimaginative yet emphatic: “Ros-si-ya”. The flag-waving and chanting was of a different order to that of recent years in Russia: it was joyous, unifying patriotism rather than the angry, reactionary jingoism of 2014 around the annexation of Crimea and the war in Ukraine. Vladimir Putin was a largely absent figure, restricting himself to an appearance at the opening match and a short meeting in the Kremlin with footballers.
In the end, these have not been the Putin games, they have been the Russia games, showcasing a nation that has changed tremendously in the past two decades, and giving it a chance to put on a smiling and hospitable face that few outside its borders knew existed. The country took delight in its moment of glory, winning over the hearts of many travelling fans who had not expected the warmth of the welcome, the long nights of dancing and drinking, and the pleasant and historically fascinating host cities.
All roads led to Moscow, with almost all air, rail and road travel between the cities easiest through the capital. This meant Moscow became a fan hub, packed not only with fans awaiting games in the city but those stopping over for a day or two between the football. It was the World Cup of Google Translate and of Tinder, with thousands of friendships and relationships springing up between locals and fans.
On the pitch, it has also been a World Cup to remember. The lack of a clear favourite made for a gloriously unpredictable tournament. Only Egypt and Panama lost all three of their group games, there were very few matches that were so one-sided as to lack all intrigue, and just a sole 0-0. The shock of the group stage was the German exit, particularly surprising after their at-the-death winner against Sweden appeared to have given them a predictably German escape route from the group.
Many nations had more positive stories, such as a Belgium team that dispatched Brazil in perhaps the match of the tournament, before falling to France. England, for the first time since 1990, made a semi-final, and briefly united the nation in the belief that it was “coming home”. It wasn’t, of course, but at least the realisation when it came felt less soul-destroying than at previous tournaments. Croatia’s appearance in the final is a truly extraordinary vindication of a “golden generation” that looked like it might never come good.
And then, again, there were the hosts, whose limited but spirited team made an inspirational run to the quarter-finals, seeing off Spain on penalties before falling in the same way to Croatia. “We achieved victory in the moral sense: the country was united, everyone was happy and full of joy,” said Stanislav Cherchesov, Russia’s coach.
During the group stage, Moscow’s Nikolskaya Street fizzed with cosmopolitan energy, as fans from around the world gathered with locals in song, dance and drinking. And then, the fans started thinning out, especially as the well-supported South American teams headed for the exit. Peru, with the most glorious fans of all, were out after just two games, left to wonder what might have been had Christian Cueva scored rather than skied his penalty when they were 0-0 with Denmark in their opening game. Colombia’s massed ranks of yellow also left Russia after their team fell to that most unusual of things, an English penalty shootout win, while the vast hordes of Argentinians were left devastated by their 4-3 loss to France, powered by 19-year-old Kylian Mbappe, one of the tournament’s most impressive performers.
Some of other big names offered flashes of intrigue before fading away in the knockout stages: Cristiano Ronaldo’s stunning hat-trick in Portugal’s opening game against Spain and Lionel Messi’s impressive strike against France, but neither of their sides made it to the quarter finals. Neymar played with skill and grace, save the ridiculous play-acting, but could not prevent Brazil from losing to Belgium.
On Monday morning, the World Cup circus will leave town, with 64 matches played, billions of dollars of revenue accrued, and millions of cans of Fifa-approved Budweiser drunk around the stadiums. With the next World Cup in Qatar, Russia 2018 is likely to be remembered fondly for some time, providing a different picture of the country to many foreigners, and possibly changing the attitudes of many Russians to the outside world, as well.
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